Core to PROTECT (antimicrobial textiles), SmartLife (smart clothing), REFREAM (fashion manufacturing), MY-FI (myco-fibres), and BIONANOPOLYS (bionanocomposites for textile/packaging).
ASOCIACION DE INVESTIGACION DE LAINDUSTRIA TEXTIL Y COSMETICA
Spanish textile research association specializing in bio-based fibres, smart textiles, antimicrobial surfaces, and nano-enabled materials for industrial applications.
Their core work
AITEX is a Spanish textile and cosmetics research association based in Alcoy (Alicante), operating as an applied R&D center for the textile industry. They develop advanced textile materials — from smart clothing and antimicrobial fabrics to bio-based fibers grown from fungal mycelium. Their work spans the full chain from raw material innovation (biomass processing, nanocomposites) to functional textile products for sectors including fashion, automotive, packaging, and first-responder equipment. They bridge laboratory textile science with industrial-scale production, helping manufacturers adopt sustainable and high-performance materials.
What they specialise in
MY-FI focuses on mycelium-based biobased textiles and BIOSEA on aquatic biomass molecules — both targeting circular, renewable material sourcing.
BIONANOPOLYS is an open innovation test bed for nano-enabled bio-based polymer composites; PROTECT works on surface nanostructured antimicrobial textiles.
FINESSE project on distributed fibre optic sensing — an unusual capability for a textile research center, likely linked to smart textile integration.
SmartLife developed gamified smart clothing for energy behavior; TeamAware integrates AR and AI for first-responder monitoring wearables.
Coordinated BIOSEA, developing cost-effective technology to extract molecules from aquatic biomass for food, feed, and industrial use.
How they've shifted over time
AITEX's early H2020 work (2016–2019) centered on sensor technology (fibre optics in FINESSE), functional surface treatments (antimicrobial nanostructured textiles in PROTECT), and digital-textile crossovers (smart clothing in SmartLife). From 2020 onward, their focus shifted decisively toward sustainability: fungal fermentation and mycelium-based fibres (MY-FI), bio-based nanocomposites for packaging and automotive (BIONANOPOLYS), and circular economy principles. This evolution tracks the broader European textile industry's pivot from performance-focused innovation to bio-based, circular material systems.
AITEX is moving firmly toward bio-based, circular textile materials — expect future projects in mycelium fibres, biodegradable packaging, and sustainable automotive textiles.
How they like to work
AITEX operates predominantly as a participant (6 of 8 projects), joining established consortia rather than leading them — they coordinated only one project (BIOSEA). With 132 unique partners across 19 countries, they maintain a broad, non-exclusive network, suggesting they are a sought-after technical contributor rather than a consortium-building hub. Their participation in Innovation Actions (4 projects) over pure Research Actions indicates they are valued for bringing technologies closer to market rather than for fundamental research alone.
AITEX has collaborated with 132 unique partners across 19 countries, indicating a wide European network with no strong geographic concentration. Their broad partner base reflects their versatility — textile expertise is relevant to many sectors and consortium configurations.
What sets them apart
AITEX sits at a rare intersection: they are a dedicated textile research association with deep material science capabilities, but increasingly focused on bio-based and circular alternatives (mycelium, aquatic biomass, nanocomposites). Unlike university labs, they operate as an industry association — meaning they understand manufacturing scale-up and can bridge lab results to production lines. For consortium builders, they offer a one-stop textile technology partner that covers everything from fibre development to functional surface treatments to smart textile integration.
Highlights from their portfolio
- MY-FILargest individual funding (EUR 473,750 in a EUR 688k+ project scope) and represents their strategic pivot to circular bio-based textiles using fungal mycelium — a frontier material.
- BIOSEATheir only coordinated project, demonstrating leadership capability in aquatic biomass valorization for food, feed, and bio-based products.
- REFREAMHighest single EC contribution (EUR 688,695) and an unusual art-science-fashion crossover focused on urban manufacturing — shows creative versatility.